To Our Valued Customers

Congratulations on your new SOTAR, and thank you for choosing us for your whitewater needs. In an effort to make the world’s best boats, we are very proud that, since starting the company in 1980, Glenn Lewman and the SOTAR staff have been the very first to produce self-bailing rafts, all-welded seams, and then completely all-welded boats. We strive to make our boats the toughest, lightest, and highest-performing inflatables on the water, and we're always happy to hear our customers' enthusiastic confirmation that we have continued to succeed.
Please feel free to share your experiences on our Facebook and Instagram pages. We’d love to see you in action!

The information contained in this manual is intended to help you maintain your boat. Our dedicated staff is eager to help if you have any questions about your new SOTAR inflatable. Please do not hesitate to contact us.

Contents

Serial Number

The US Coast Guard requires us to put a serial number on each of the rafts, catarafts and kayaks that we manufacture for numerous reasons including the requirement to register the craft if you put a motor on it. The serial number is imprinted on a 4” circle patch in the bow or stern of your boat. The serial number consists of 12 numbers and letters. It will always start WWQ and then the next 4-5 digits will be your boat number followed by a letter representing the month that it was made and then the model year that it was built. Our contact information is also on this circle patch.

This serial number also helps us at the factory to track your boat and the history of additions or repairs over the course of its life. If you want to add any accessories, find out exact dimensions for making a frame, or want to make a duplicate of your boat in case it was stolen or damaged beyond repair, we can look up the serial number and get all of the information needed off of the original work order. If you want to sell your boat or need to turn in a claim to your insurance, we can look up your original work order, and tell you how much it would cost to make you a new one.

WARNING! DO NOT DRAG OR ROTATE
WHEN BOAT IS ROLLED ON ANY SURFACE
BECAUSE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.

Inflation & Deflation

To get the best performance and life out of your boat, you need to properly inflate and maintain the correct pressure. Select an area free of sharp objects such as rocks, sticks or debris. Unroll the boat and lay it out flat. Avoid standing on the boat before and during inflation to prevent scratching and possible pinhole leaks. We use D7 Leafield boat valves; to open the valves, unscrew the cap, which covers the entire exposed valve, by turning counterclockwise. The stem will stick up in the middle of the valve. To deflate the tube, push the stem in and turn it counterclockwise to lock it in the open position. You do not need to open the valve in order to inflate your tubes. The air pressure from the pump pushes the stem/plunger in and allows air to enter the tubes. You can use a foot pump, barrel pump, electric pump or other low-pressure device to inflate your tubes. However, you should not use high-pressure devices such as air compressors to inflate your boat.

The boat is divided into separate air chambers using a baffle system. Start by inflating one end of the boat, then a side section, then the other side section, the other end, the floor, and then the thwarts. It is important not to over-inflate an air chamber as you can blow out the baffle. We recommend putting about 2 lbs. of pressure in each chamber, then going around the boat again and topping it off. You want between 2.5 to 3 lbs of pressure in the boat when topped off. 

All of our 3-Piece, 2-chamber Cats have an internal lengthwise baffle (a cat tube inside the cat tube). Inflate the inner baffle first, then the outer baffle. The inner baffle valve is always on the inside of the boat. Locate the serial number patch on the inside of the tubes, and the correct valve should be the closest one to the patch. Inflate just until it takes shape, and then fully inflate the outside chamber to 2-3.5 lbs.

To deflate your boat, remove the cap, push the stem down, and twist it to the left. This will lock the valve open. Try to do all the valves at the same time (this will require two people), or push on each stem to release a little pressure, then open them all as quickly as possible to avoid putting pressure on the inner baffles. Close the valves by turning the valve stem to the right until it pops up and closes the valve, and replace the cap when the boat is not in use and before rolling. This protects the valve stem and prevents water and dirt from getting inside your boat. Dirt or debris can keep the plunger inside from sealing and cause a slow continuous leak. We also recommend the valves be checked every 6 months or so to see if they need to be tightened, cleaned or changed. This is your responsibility.

Inflate kayaks as follows: right tube, left tube, floor, then backrest.

Care and Folding

Proper care and folding are important in extending your boats life. We recommend that if it is rolled up, you keep it in a boat bag or another wrap such as canvas, heavy duty plastic or other protective material. This will not only help keep it clean, but will protect it from accidental minor damage. Even when the boat is wrapped, we cannot stress enough the importance of not dragging your boat while it is deflated. Our boats are the toughest around when inflated, but the folded corners are very susceptible to abrasion when the boat is rolled and dragged on surfaces such as cement and gravel.

Roll kayaks flat starting with the foot peg end of IK. Roll cat tubes with one tube lined up on top of the other.

After deflating all chambers of your boat, you will need to take one side of the raft and fold it over to where the floor meets the tubes on the opposite side (Diagram 1).

Then take the other side and fold it over the top into thirds (Diagram 2).

Then you want to roll it up like a cinnamon roll starting at the valve end of the raft (Diagram 3).Use your boat strap to secure it and then wrap it in a boat bag, wrap, or tarp of your choice.

 DO NOT USE 303 (30308) UV PROTECTANT it interferes with the welding and adhering that may be necessary to perform a repair. And our Urethane is formulated to withstand high sun exposure.

 

BOAT WRAP INSTRUCTIONS (to be purchased separately)

Cleaning

Use a mild dish soap and water to clean off any dirt or sand on your boat. If you get rub marks or frame marks on your tubes, we recommend Inflatable Boat Cleaner or RAM cleaner, which does not contain oils like 303 Protectant. Although oils give your boat a shiny new appearance, the oils soak into the material and will make it difficult to add any accessories such as chafe, wrap, D-rings, or foot cups later or do any needed repair work. If you want to use 303 Protectant on your boat, we recommend using it only once a year. It has oils in it that soak into the material coating and make it difficult to do repairs or additions such as top chafe, bottom wrap, footcups, extra D-rings, etc.

Storage

We recommend keeping your boat partially inflated in a clean, dry place. If you store it outside, keep a tarp or other protection over it to keep it out of the elements. You may also store your boat fully deflated and rolled (as we do here at SOTAR). Make sure your boat is clean and dry before rolling it up for storage. You should also wrap it in a boat bag or tarp to help protect it, keeping in mind that the edges on a rolled boat are more susceptible to abrasion, and you should use extra caution when moving the boat around. If you store it in a garage or shed, you may want to put out bait for mice and rats, as they will chew and nest in rafts. We have seen considerable damage to rafts in storage from rodents.

Basic Repairs

Each boat comes with a patch kit which consists of a waterproof bag (Interior Dimensions: 5.9" x 8.8" x 2.4" ), three 3” x 12” strips of Tear-Aid Type ‘A’, a leafield valve wrench, alcohol wipes, and instructions for using Tear-Aid. We recommend carrying a small set of blunt-ended scissors for easy cutting of the Tear-Aid if needed.

Stabond glue, MEK cleaner, urethane patch material, and pressure gauges are still available for purchase in our store if you need to do a more extensive repair.

TEAR REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

If possible, repeat Steps 1-4 on the inside of the raft (if accessible) for a more durable, double-sided repair.  Watch our video for detailed instructions on applying Tear-Aid to the inside of the raft.

STEP 1 - CLEAN AND DRY

For best results, clean and dry the area of the raft you wish to repair.  Bring your raft ashore before the repair.  Clean the surface to be repaired with an alcohol prep pad, or a 50/50 mixture of rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol and water. Make sure the area around your tear/hole is dry before applying Tear-Aid.  

STEP 2 - CUT

Using scissors, cut the patch so that it extends at least 1 inch beyond all sides of the tear or hole. If using more than one patch, allow for patch sizes to overlap at least 1 inch. If using multiple patches, overlap them by at least 1 inch. Round the corners of each patch with scissors to reduce the chance of peeling or edge lifting.

STEP 3 - PEEL

Carefully peel back about ½ inch of the paper backing from the patch. Start from an edge where the backing separates easily. This helps you place the patch more accurately—especially when applying small pieces or working in tight raft seams or curves.

STEP 4 - STICK

Align and anchor the exposed edge of the patch to the raft, making sure it extends the full 1 inch beyond the damaged area. Slowly peel away the rest of the backing while pressing the patch firmly onto the raft. Use your fingers or a roller to press out any air bubbles and ensure full contact with the raft surface.

Rub down all edges firmly to secure the patch. Apply strong pressure across the entire patch area to ensure proper adhesion. 

Click here to download the Tear-Aid Instructions from the manufacturer.

 

REPAIRS USING STABOND GLUE AND MATERIAL PATCHES:

Your boat must be deflated to properly patch it. For minor repairs, clean the surface to be patched and the patch itself with MEK until all dirt and oxidation is removed. (The shiny material should show through). Apply the first coat of adhesive immediately, brushing it evenly on each surface. Allow it to dry for 20 minutes before applying the second coat. When the second coat is dry, reactivate both surfaces with MEK. When aggressively tacky (like duct tape), assemble and apply pressure using a smooth, hard object. If no MEK is available, you may apply the patch when the second coat is tacky. Rub thoroughly for superior bonding. If you are repairing a rip over five inches, we suggest patching both inside and outside. The patch should be at least two inches larger than the rip in all directions. Most importantly, keep the surfaces dry at all times. We recommend that you let the patch dry 1 hour for on river repairs and for a permanent patch you will need to let it set 24 hours.

Check your glue and MEK every season, as the glue can harden after 1-2 seasons and the MEK will evaporate. You can get fresh Glue and MEK from SOTAR or from Northwest River Supply. Also, if you notice any pinhole leaks or scratches on your boat, Liquid Urethane (clear and colored) is available from SOTAR, which will seal them up. You do not need to put a patch over it.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us at service@sotar.com

Factory Repair

Before you ship a boat in for repairs, submit photos of the damaged areas. In some cases, boats are not repairable, and photos of the damaged areas can prevent shipping costs if repairs cannot be made.

If you need to send the boat back to SOTAR for repairs or additions, call us (800-467-6827) or email us (service@sotar.com) to get a repair authorization number so we can schedule you in. If you contact us before you ship and let us know the problem, it will help speed up the repair process. Please send your boat to our physical address on the back of this manual. Please include a note in the box with your name, address, and phone number so we can contact you after our evaluation is complete. We will inspect your entire boat and let you know what we find.

Unless the repairs are under warranty, we cannot start the repair work without authorization and a 50% deposit. Shipping charges are not covered under the warranty (see page 9 of the manual), and we have found that the cheapest and easiest way to ship is using a standard UPS office (not a mailbox, etc.), or we can arrange for a freight company to pick up your boat, as we get a discount with them and are happy to pass this discount on to you. We will contact you when the repairs are completed and will let you know when we are shipping your boat back to you.

We try to keep repair turnaround time to 2-4 weeks depending on the work needed. However, if you have minor warranty repairs that can wait until the end of the boating season, you may want to do this, as we can get very busy in spring and early summer, and turnaround is faster in the off-season (September – February). Factory repair work done by SOTAR carries a one-year warranty.

Repair rates on non-warranty work are $180 per hour plus materials. We also work on non-SOTAR rafts for $200 per hour. We do not work on Hypalon boats, but we do sell materials so you can do repairs yourself if you choose.