FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What material is used to make SOTAR products?
Our standard boat material is Rezcoat 1500 denier aliphatic 40oz urethane. Our lighter weight lines are now made with Rezcoat 1500 denier aliphatic 35oz urethane.
Are SOTAR's glued or welded?
SOTAR boats are heat welded, and the hardware (d-ring patches) are RF (radio frequency) welded to the boat panels.
The only time glue is used in the production process is for material chafes or bottom wraps.
Does my raft come with thwarts?
Our Classic ST Rafts and Liquid SL Rafts come standard with 2 buckle thwarts. There is room to add a 3rd thwart in sizes 12' and up.
You also have the option to switch from the buckle-thwart style to the lace-in style.
The Strike does not come with thwarts, but sometimes customers add lace-in thwarts.
The Merlin Series and Rogue Series come standard with 2 lace-in thwarts.
Do you build boat frames?
We do not build boat frames, although we occasionally have frames in stock in our retail store.
Here are some links to some of our favorite frame builders to help you find the right frame for your needs!
Class V Adventure Gear (Idaho)
Down River Equipment (Colorado)
Talon Fishing Company (Colorado)
Do any of your boats include a frame?
No. Our rafts and catarafts do not include the frame.
Occasionally we may have an in-stock boat package available, though!
What if I have an existing frame that I want my tubes built around?
You will want to compare:
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The specs of the straight sections of your chosen boat -vs- the length of your frame.
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The inside width of your raft -vs- the width of any existing dry box, hard floor, beavertail, favorite cooler, or cooler bay.
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Width of your frame -vs- the width of the raft. (center to center of tube = inside width of the raft, plus one tube diameter)
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Will you need extra d-rings for your frame to be secured?
Where can I find a trailer?
There are a few companies out there that we have worked with that manufacture awesome trailers.
R & M Metal Fabrication (Oregon)
How do I determine which oars to purchase?
Here at SOTAR we work closely with our neighbors, Sawyer Paddles & Oars.
Here is a link to some awesome videos to help you decide what oars you may want to purchase.
IN-STOCK BOATS
What are "in-stock" rafts, catarafts and inflatable kayaks?
In-stock boats have already been manufactured, and are ready to purchase in our retail store, or online.
Can I still make customizations to an in-stock boat?
Yes! In most cases you still have the option for additions such as: top chafe, bottom chafe, a bottom wrap, extra hardware (d-rings), or custom logos.
Are these damaged boats?
Our standard in-stock boats are not damaged. If we have any boats that have been repaired they would be available to purchase through the factory seconds page. On the factory seconds page there may be repaired boats, slightly used boats, or other boats that we do not deem "factory firsts" as they come through the production line.
BEFORE THE BUILD
What should I consider before finalizing my build?
For Rafts, you will want to consider the following:
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Floor valve location - Which is the bow of your boat? if you have a raft that has foot cups (which face forward), a straight section and stern chafe, or any other hardware or custom logos that determine the front or back of your boat, think about how you would like to access your floor inflation valve. The most common is to have your floor inflation valve in the bow.
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Thwarts, or no thwarts? - Your raft comes with 2 buckle thwarts, and depending on the size has the hardware for 3. If you think that you will not ever use the thwarts, you have the option to choose to remove the thwarts from your order. If you decide to remove your thwarts from your order, please specify if you would like to keep the thwart d-rings, or remove them from your build. If you want to switch to lace-in thwarts, for more versatility, please let your representative know.
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Do you want to add extra d-rings, or handles, for rigging? - Do you have a frame that requires more tie-down points, or a favorite gear bag? Maybe you are thinking extra handles would be helpful? These are all important questions to ask yourself when finalizing your build.
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Will you want extra tube diameter, inside width, or length? - Our rafts are customizable to fit your needs! Let us know if you need to alter your build.
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Do you want a top chafe, bottom chafe, or full bottom wrap? - This provides extra protection from abrasion.
For Catarafts, consider:
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Do you need extra handles or d-rings? - maybe you have a special frame that needs tie-down points, or you want more handles to carry your rig with. Let us know!
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Will you want extra tube diameter or length? - Our catarafts are customizable to fit your needs! Let us know if you need to alter your build.
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Do you want a top or bottom chafe? - This provides extra protection from abrasion.
What are common additions/options for my build?
The most common additions are:
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Top Chafe
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Bottom Chafe -or- Bottom Wrap
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Extra Handle D-Rings
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Extra 1.5" Oval D-Rings
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Extra 2" Oval -or- Optional D-Rings
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A Third Thwart
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Foot Cups
What is a chafe?
A chafe is a protective layer in between the boat's tubes and common abrasive objects like your frame, trailer, boat landing, or river bed.
We offer two different styles - Liquid Lex or Material Chafe; both about +/- 12" wide.
Liquid Lex is a liquid roll-on urethane "paint" that is applied in multiple layers. This style presents a slightly "grippy" texture.
Material Chafe is another layer of our standard 40oz urethane boat material that is glued, then heat-sealed with seam tape. This will be your most durable.
What are my chafe length options?
You can choose to have a top chafe, bottom chafe, or both! Top and bottom chafe are both available for rafts and catarafts.
For Rafts and Catarafts - the most common length is the straight sections, which typically runs a little bit past the frame. This is called a "straight section chafe", and would be the same for the bottom chafe under the tubes.
For Rafts - if you are wanting more length, you can choose to have the chafe go "all around", which is the perimeter of the raft's tubes. Or, if you are running a fishing frame with a stern mount, you can choose to have your chafe run along the "straight sections and stern", where it wraps around the stern of your raft's tubes. These options are the same for your bottom chafe, as well.
For Catarafts - your options are limited with a material chafe to the straight sections on the top and bottom of the tubes. You do have an option for more coverage of the almost the whole bottom panel of the tube if you choose a Liquid Lex Bottom Wrap. The wrap goes the full length of the bottom panel (endcone to endcone), and is wide as the bottom panel (seam tape to seam tape).
Please inquire for more custom options.
What if I want more protective coverage with my chafe?
We offer a bottom wrap, which is applied to the bottom of your tubes. It is similar to a chafe, just offers more coverage.
The bottom wrap starts at the grommet strip, on the inside of your raft's tubes, and spans almost to the bottoms of the outer tube's hardware. It does not protect the bottom of the floor.
Most customers get a full material bottom wrap, which is all around the tubes (the full perimeter of the raft).
What D-Ring Additions are common?
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Handle D-Rings - Installed center straight sections in between the already existing handles on the straight sections of the raft.
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1.5" Oval D-Rings - Installed on the inside position of the tubes on the 'E' panels (end panels), and the inside 'B' panels for rigging a beavertail or your favorite gear bag.
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2" Oval or Optional D-Rings - Installed on the outer panels for rigging heavy loads for heavy whitewater.
(Click here to view your different hardware options)
How do I request changes to my rafts design?
Please determine what changes you would like to make and email, message, or call the sales representative you are working with. From there, they will email you an updated quote after you have decided the changes you wish to make.
Can I get a physical sample of the colors?
Yes you can! Please let your representative know what colors you would like to see and they will mail them to you
DURING THE BUILD
How do I know when you have started building my boat?
You will be able to track your order through our project management system, GuideCX.
Can I make changes to my boat after I place my order?
If we have already started your build you may be able to change certain items like the logo color, changes to your top or bottom chafe, and potentially add more hardware (d-rings).
If we have not started your build you can even change your boat's style, modify the dimensions, color, and the listed items in the above paragraph.
How do I find out if my boat is finished?
Once your boat is finished, your SOTAR sales representative will send photos of your boat after the quality control process.
RECEIVING MY BOAT
How do I get my boat?
Once your boat is finished, or before it is finished, you will need to let your SOTAR sales representative know if you would like your boat shipped (please include shipping address), or if you would like to pick it up.
If you are getting your boat shipped to you, your representative will box/palletize and weigh the boat, then calculate your shipping cost. After the shipping cost is determined they will email your final invoice over to you for final payment.
If you are picking up your boat from our facility, please let your representative know if you would like your boat inflated for transport on a trailer, or if you would like your boat rolled for transport.
Also schedule what day and time you will be arriving. You will receive your final invoice after this information has been received. We ask that you please pay your final invoice before pick up.
Your boat will not be released from our facility if your final invoice has not been paid.
What if my new boat arrives damaged from shipping?
Take as many photos as possible that show the box from ALL angles, the boat wrap, and the boat's damaged areas.
Contact us immediately with these photos, so we can take the next steps in helping you.
How do I inflate my new boat?
To get started, select an area free of sharp objects such as rocks, sticks or debris. Avoid standing on the boat before and during inflation to prevent scratching and possible pinhole leaks.
Unroll the boat and lay it out flat. We use D7 Leafield boat valves; to open the valves, unscrew the cap, which covers the entire exposed valve, by turning counterclockwise. The stem will stick up in the middle of the valve, to deflate the tube you need to push the stem in and turn it counterclockwise to lock it in the open position. You do not need to open the valve in order to inflate your tubes. The air pressure from the pump will push the stem/plunger in and allow the air to go into the tubes. You can use a foot pump, barrel pump, electric pump or other low-pressure device to inflate your tubes. However, you should not use high-pressure devices such as air compressors to inflate your boat.
Our rafts are divided into separate air chambers using a baffle system. Start by inflating one end of the boat, then a side section, then the other side section, the other end, floor and then the thwarts. It is important not to over-inflate an air chamber as you can blow out the baffle. We recommend that you put about 2 lbs. of pressure in each chamber and then go around the boat again and top it off. You want between 2.5 to 3 lbs of pressure in the boat when topped off.
Our 2-chamber Catarafts have an internal lengthwise bladder (a cat tube inside the cat tube). You must inflate the inner bladder first and then the outer baffle. The inner bladder valve is always on the inside position on the tube. Locate the serial number patch on the inside of the tubes and the correct valve should be the closest one to the patch. Inflate just until it takes shape, and then fully inflate the outside chamber to 2-3.5 lbs.
How much air should I put in my boat?
For your raft, you are aiming for between 2.5 to 3 lbs of pressure in the boat when topped off. Your floor should be topped off at 2.5 lbs to 2.75 lbs of pressure.
For your cataraft, you'll want the pressure to be between 2-3.5 lbs.
How do I deflate the boat?
To deflate your boat, remove the cap, push the stem down and twist it to the left. This will lock the valve open. Try to do all of the valves at the same time (this will require two people), or push on each of the stems to release a little pressure, and then open them all as quickly as possible to avoid putting pressure on the inner baffles.
It is important to close the valves by turning the valve stem to the right until it pops up and closes the valve, and replace the cap when the boat is not in use and prior to rolling. This will protect the stem of your valve and also prevent water and dirt from getting inside your boat. Dirt or debris can keep the plunger inside from sealing and cause a slow continuous leak. We also recommend the valves be checked every 6 months or so to see if they need to be tightened, cleaned or changed. This is your responsibility.
MAINTAINING MY BOAT
How do I clean my boat?
Use a mild dish soap and water to clean off any dirt or sand on your boat. If you get rub marks or frame marks on your tubes, we recommend NRS Inflatable Boat Cleaner for spot cleaning.
Can I use 303 protectant?
SOTAR's urethane material is formulated to withstand high sun exposure, and we do not recommend 303 protectant on our boats.
Although 303 gives your boat a shiny new appearance, the oils soak into the material and make it difficult to add any accessories such as chafe, wrap, d-rings or foot cups later, or do any needed repair work.
If you want to use 303 Protectant on your boat we recommend you only use it once a year very lightly. It has oils in it that soak into the material coating and make it difficult to do repairs, or additions such as top chafe, bottom wrap, footcups, extra d-rings, etc.
How do I store my boat?
It is recommended that you keep your boat partially inflated in a clean, dry place. If it is stored outside, be sure to keep a tarp or other form of protection over it to keep it out of the elements.
You may also store your boat fully deflated and rolled (as we do here at SOTAR). It is very important that you make sure that your boat is clean and dry prior to rolling it up for storage. You should also wrap it in a boat bag, wrap, or tarp to help protect it, keeping in mind the edges on a rolled boat are more susceptible to abrasion and extra caution should be used in moving the boat around.
If stored in a garage or shed you may want to put out bait for mice and rats as they will chew and nest in rafts. We have seen some considerable damage done to rafts in storage by rodents.
How do I protect my boat while its rolled in storage?
Your boat may have come with a boat wrap and we recommend that if it is rolled up, you keep it in the wrap or another wrap such as canvas, heavy duty plastic, or other protective material. This will not only help keep it clean, but will protect it from accidental minor damage.
Even when the boat is wrapped, we cannot stress enough the importance of not dragging your boat while it is deflated. Our boats are the toughest around when inflated, but the folded corners are very susceptible to abrasion when the boat is rolled and dragged on surfaces such as cement and gravel.
How do I fold and roll my boat?
For your raft: After deflating all chambers of your boat, you will need to take one side of the raft and fold it over to where the floor meets the tubes on the opposite side.
Then take the other side and fold it over the top so that it is in thirds.
Then you want to roll it up like a cinnamon roll starting at the valve end of the raft.
Use your boat strap to secure it while rolled, and then wrap it in your chosen form of boat wrap or bag.
For your cataraft: After both tubes are fully deflated, stack one on top of the other.
You will want to start rolling at the opposite end of the valves, end cones tucked first, and roll tightly toward the valves.
Right before reaching the opposite end cones, fold them both in toward you, and finish your roll.
Use your boat strap to secure it while rolled, and then wrap it in your chosen form of boat wrap or bag.
Roll kayaks on a flat starting with the foot peg end of IK. Roll cat tubes with one tube lined up on top of the other.
Use your boat strap to secure it while rolled, and then wrap it in your chosen form of boat wrap or bag.
BOAT REPAIRS
What damage is covered under warranty?
SOTAR offers a manufacturer warranty which covers such issues as material failures, lifting seam tape, cold welds, or any other manufacturing issues.
The length of your warranty depends on the model of boat purchased.
Warranty does not include any damage caused by excessive abuse, over-inflation, or conditions not considered to be normal wear and tear. Warranty is not transferable and is good to the original purchaser only.
Normal care such as cleaning, checking and tightening valves, and proper storage to avoid damage is the customer’s responsibility and will not be covered under warranty.
If a boat under warranty is determined not repairable, we will then determine a trade in value based on the price paid, age, and the condition of the boat.
Where can I get repairs?
Here at SOTAR we offer factory repairs which are covered with a 1 year repair warranty on repairs made.
Any repairs made from any other repair shops that are not certified by SOTAR, will void your warranty on the problemed area.
If you are in need of a repair please contact us prior to dropping your boat off, or shipping your boat to us.
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Call: 1-800-GOSOTAR, ext. 105 (for service)
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Email (with photos or videos & serial number if possible): service@sotar.com
By contacting us prior to dropping off, or shipping your boat, we have the opportunity to possibly inform you ahead of time if we can work on your boat, or if a $150 evaluation deposit (non-refundable) is required.
How do I prepare my boat for shipping?
After contacting us prior to shipping (service@sotar.com), you will mail your boat to:
SOTAR, Attn: Service, 724 Ort Lane, Merlin, OR 97532
Please put a note in the box that has your name, address, phone number, and email so that we can contact you after we have received your boat.
Do not ship your boat without a box, or pallet, with foam wrapping, plastic wrapping, or paper! This can cause major damages during the shipping process which will not be covered by SOTAR.
We have found that the cheapest and easiest way to ship is using a standard UPS office (not a Mailboxes etc.) depending on the weight of the inflatable.
We will contact you when the repairs are completed, and will ship your boat back to you after your final invoice has been paid.
Please let us know if you have any questions on shipping or packing.
Shipping charges are not covered under the warranty.
How do I patch my boat?
Your boat must be deflated in order to properly patch your boat.
For temporary repairs we recommend using Tear-Aid Original Type A. This is a clear sticky-backed tape.
First cut your desired sized patch, always making sure to cut curved corners to prevent peeling up. Ideally he size of the patch should be at least two inches larger than the rip in all directions.
Clean the area to be patched, and apply your patch making sure to get the bubbles out (like if applying a sticker).
For minor repairs, clean the surface to be patched and the patch itself with MEK until all dirt and oxidation is removed. (The shiny material should show through). Apply the first coat of adhesive (stabond, for urethane boats) immediately, brushing it evenly on each surface. Allow it to dry for 20 minutes before applying the second coat.
When the second coat is dry, reactivate both surfaces with MEK. When aggressively tacky (like duct tape), assemble and apply pressure using a smooth hard object. If no MEK is available, the patch may be applied when the second coat is tacky. Rub thoroughly for superior bonding.
If you are repairing a rip of over five inches we suggest that you patch both inside and outside. The size of the patch should be at least two inches larger than the rip in all directions.
Most importantly, keep the surfaces dry at all times. We recommend that you let the patch dry 1 hour for on river repairs and for a permanent patch you will need to let it set 24 hours.
Please note that your glue and MEK will need to be checked every season as the glue can harden usually after 1-2 seasons and the MEK will evaporate. You can get fresh Stabond Adhesive and MEK from SOTAR or from Northwest River Supply (NRS.com).